Decanter Magazine 100
Harvest began on 22 August and wrapped up three weeks later for Cory Empting and his team at Harlan Estate. Longtime Harlan collectors might notice that the colour of the 2021 is surprisingly light—an almost lucid ruby colour. From it emerges a beautifully pure and precise red with coiled-up energy: gorgeous violet florals, black currants, black cherry, tobacco, and Szechuan pepper aromas. From the wine's medium-bodied palate, pure black currant, black cherry, and spiced plum fruits intermix with pomegranate seed, tobacco and a hint of dark chocolate. Ultrafine, sculpted tannins build on the palate through the saline-scented finish. This wine has a natural brightness and perfumed florals that deliver freshness. Super compact, with immense structure, and best after 2027. I was able to taste it over three days, and it was still driving hard with tension and energy by day three, and only then beginning to open, which is the mark of a wine with tremendous cellaring potential. Yields were lower than average for the estate. Collectors need to note that this isn't a massive shift in style but rather a trend toward building wine with piercing acidity that ensures it will age for decades. And at this price, it should wow with freshness and energy well into 2041, 2051, or 2061 when opened by those of you (or family members) fortunate enough to have held bottles that long.