96 Wine Spectator Saint Cosme ChaÌ‚teauneuf-du-Pape 2010 • $59
Densely packed, with a core of baker’s chocolate, espresso, bay leaf, licorice root, black currant preserves and steeped fig. A strong, almost rigid charcoal spine carries the finish, surrounded by ample flesh, lingering minerality and a smoldering feel. A backward, old-school version built for long cellaring. Best from 2017 through 2030. 1,300 cases made.—J.M.